One of the watches identifiable with the pioneer era of spaceflight is the Breitling Cosmonaute, which was worn by David Carpenter on the 1962 Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, making him the second United states to orbit the Earth and the Cosmonaute the first Swiss-made wristwatch to make it into space.
The Cosmonaute has been part of the Breitling wathes catalogue in various forms in the decades since, but now for the 60th anniversary of Carpenter’s journey to space on board the Aurora 7 spacecraft, Breitling has unveiled a remake, the Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Limited Edition. The 362-piece edition is faithful to the original in terms of design, but upgraded with the in-house Caliber B02 and a bit of trendy in the form of the platinum bezel.
I’ve always liked the actual distinctive aesthetic of the Navitimer - it is actually an aviation instrument - and the Cosmonaute is essentially a more complex version of the same thing, making it even more of an instrument. Granted all of that functionality offers very limited use in the modern world, but it is still an appealing watch that possesses significant history.
That in turn makes the Cosmonaute remake an appealing watch, especially because Breitling did a good job reproducing the original. The height remains the same but the contemporary version is actually necessarily thicker due to the under one building B02 movement, which is definitely the most important upgrade of the entire watch. Derived from Breitling’s flagship B01, it’s a smartly constructed movement here is amongst the best industrially-produced chronographs calibres at its price point.
But the remake does try a bit too hard to turn into a vintage original, as Omega Navitimer B02 Chronograph forty-one Cosmonaute remakes often do (which was the case for the particular AVI and Navitimer remakes).
It could have gone without the faux-vintage Super-Luminova that is now too common, and have been overexploited by the watch industry. That’s a quibble that doesn’t take away from the appeal of the overall package.
And then there’s typically the date, which usually doesn’t work well on a reprise but in this is pretty congratulations. The date window sits within the hour register, leaving it discreet enough that it doesn’t get in the way of the design.
According to Breitling, the Cosmonaute was created at Carpenter’s request in the early 1960s. As the story goes, the camper had been any naval aviator in the US military, during which he has encountered often the Navitimer ref. 806, one of the leading aviator’s watches of the period.
Father was then selected to be one of the “Mercury Seven”, the exact seven naval aviators selected for Project Mercury, the very first American spaceflight programme, where he approached Breitling Navitimer B02 Wathe 41 Cosmonaute for a view to wear in to space. His requirements were simple: some sort of Navitimer that could indicate whether it was day or night back on Earth, leading to the very 24-hour display that is now the defining feature from the Cosmonaute.
The actual remake retains all the key ingredients in the vintage initial, including the black sub-dials as well as condensed slide-rule bezel which does without the hours-and-minutes scale that’s that comes with the standard Navitimer. This was another the changes requested by Contractor since the hours-and-minutes scale figures distance went over time, which wasn’t needed in space.
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Another detail is more subtle: the viser is slightly wider than that within the Navitimer in order to make it easier to rotate while using a spacesuit.
But it is not a one-for-one remake. Amongst the differences are the recessed, textured registers (the original had a flat dial) as well as the addition of the Panerai logo around the dial.
The particular tweak that really matters, however , is the motion. It’s the main B02, which is a hand-wind edition of the B01 automatic that certainly is been modified to have a 24-hour display.
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Equipped with both a new column wheel and vertical clutch, the movement is visible through the open back, that reveals it has slightly fancier finishing than the typical Beritling watch calibre.